Voodoo Doughnut Expansion!

We used a virtual tour of Portland as part of teaching this week's 5th grade English class. 

And no tour of Portland would be complete without a visit to world famous Voodoo Doughnuts!!  

In this case, the "visit" became an invitation for the kids to create an Italian-themed doughnut (sadly, only a paper version!), which they had to present to their classmates in English. 

The designs featured landmarks from Genoa, pesto, pasta and pizza, along with the obligatory reference to the Genoa football team. When Voodoo Doughnuts begins to explore opening an Italian branch, Genoa will now be ready with its pitch:

The kids will also be ready with a theme song, thanks to the always-requested call-and-response "moose song" to end the class!

Reality Check

     Although there are daily headlines about Italy’s severe economic crisis, that is often easily (and conveniently) overlooked in our relatively privileged neighborhood of Genoa. However, the staggering unemployment rate -- 42% among youth and nearly 13% overall -- was readily apparent this week, when our local café/bar/gelateria had an opening for a server.  The line of applicants stretched down the block.

     That didn't deter our following through on a promised afternoon gelato for the girls, and it offered a “teachable moment” when we explained why the crowd was gathered. Adding a topping of reality also didn’t deter their enjoyment of their treats, but it did offer a valuable and wider perspective on life here. 

Buon Compleanno!

Our fun weekends continue, this time with a birthday bash which included:

A feast

A Biggest Bubble Contest

Nick's toast stringing together every Italian phrase he has learned!


Sachertorta

And the added joy of friends from the US joining the celebration!

Settimana Bianca

Northern Italy has a tradition of a late-Winter break,  “White Week” (Settimana Bianca): so named because the intent is to allow for snow-related activities in the mountains. This is similar to “Ski Week” in Northern California, although in Italy it feels almost compulsory that you use the week to practice your winter sports. We were happy to oblige, at least for a White Weekend with our friends.

As is typically the case with our blog, we’ll bypass the challenges (e.g., the dyspeptic car rides through the winding mountain roads; the Austrian-influenced “all-animal-fat, all-the-time” food theme; the near whiteout conditions on day 2 of skiing) and get straight to the highlights! In fact, thanks to the grandeur of the Dolomiti, we can just let the images speak for us:

We also made a side trip to see a distant cousin in Bolzano (the capital city of the province of South Tyrol in northern Italy).  By “distant” we mean the 5,300 year-old glacier mummy Otzi, with whom we share the G Haplogroup (in DNA speak). Bolzano has a remarkable interactive museum which is home to Otzi and the many Neolithic artifacts he carried with him. Seeing Otzi in his high-tech preservation chamber was a bit creepy, but both girls offered a “Hi, cousin!” through the eight-centimetre-thick bullet-proof glass.

We were also lucky enough to be in Bolzano during their local Carnevale celebration, and the good luck included the girls successfully answering a series of riddles about the traditional costumes and characters. 

We carried that good fortune through the journey back to Genoa, where the celebrations will continue this month - with two birthdays and a parade of visitors!

Treats, x 2!

"Halloween" comes twice this year: in the form of the minor recognition of the N. American version back in October, and in advance of the major Carnivale festival here in March. The every-other Saturday school routine is often disappointing for the girls, but not this weekend -- when "school" constitutes confetti-throwing, pinata-smashing, costume displays, and candy consumption! We're not sure how we'll adjust to the relatively tame holiday celebrations back home, but for now, as the proverb/cliche says, "When in Rome (or Genoa!)..."

Noisy City

seagulls squawk as they soar over the dazzling sea

waves mimic each other as they crash against the ocean wall

a ferry is coming into port wailing its horns 

the strong wind from Africa whistles its way by

it is now 19:00 and the bells are chiming

all the wonderful sounds jumble together 

making such a noisy city      

                                                                   - C J R

                                                             Febbraio 2014

Ultra Football

Expanding our notion of “football” has been a fun part of this time in Italy, while still fully appreciating the American version. (Bravo, Seattle Seahawks!) One of the most noticeable contrasts is the fervency of the fans, even knowing how zealous US football fanatics can be. (Seahawks’ 12th Man!)  

In Genoa there are 2 competing football teams, each with its “Ultras” (hardcore fans) – fiercely loyal to either U.C. Sampdoria or Genoa C.F.C. This rivalry pits one of Italy's newest football franchises (Sampdoria) against Genoa's bragging rights as the oldest – having been founded in 1893, originally to represent England abroad. However, this year a common cause united the normally combative cadres: both camps were furious that their head-to-head match (called the Derby della Lanterna, named for the 900-year old landmark and main lighthouse in the port) was scheduled for early afternoon on Sunday, 2 Feb.  No, not because of the conflict with Super Bowl Sunday, but since playing “the Derby at 12:30 is an atrocious decision. We won't accept this outrage!” (Source: BBC.) According to both sets of Ultras, Genoa's Derby is all about the atmosphere, and a daytime game would be an unacceptable affront to the fan-fueled fervor that could only be achieved during an evening match!! This lead to threats of boycotting and blockading the game, summit meetings of city officials with fan representatives, and days of front-page headlines in the local paper.  At the 11th hour, sanity prevailed…and the game was moved to Monday night! 

Leading up to the Derby, the “standard” games had already been displays of extreme fandom. (Or in some cases, fan-dumb: such as the Ultras igniting flares to disrupt the game.)

But the games were sufficiently tame to bring the girls to a mid-season Genoa match. Even if a bit dazed, they had a fun time. Plus, they not only expanded their notion of “football”, but also – thanks to the surrounding fans – their vocabulary of Italian expletives and related hand gestures!

The Derby was an entirely different experience, expertly (and thankfully) guided by friend Nicola. Like most die-hard Genoa fans, for Nic this is not just about sport, but about life!  

Perhaps the evening setting did make a difference, or maybe it was the hubbub leading up to the game, but it was a wild time. At the start of the game, huge banners hung across the Gradinata Nord section (home to Genoa's Ultra fans), as well as covering our entire section at one point with a massive depiction of Genoa's griffin symbol. 

However, in the end it was all for naught, as Genoa lost 0-1. A return trip might be required next year, to see Genoa exact revenge!